Saturday, October 10, 2015

The Sahara, 16 - 18 September, 2015

We are now back from the desert after three days in nomad mode. No internet, just sand dunes, camels and a 4x4 jeep. Disconnected from the civilization we trekked the Sahara for three days.
We left Marrakech early in the morning from gare Voyager with a bus to Ouarzazate. This ride took about 5 hours. We climbed up with the bus the Atlas. The way lead between amazing mountains on a very narrow road. Sometimes scary. But after five or six hours we successfully arrived in Ouarzazate for a 3 hour layover. We used the time to have lunch in a very good restaurant, 3 Thès. We had tageen of course, which was delicious. It was significantly cheaper than those were in Marrakech. After another three hour ride we arrived in Zagora by 9pm or so. The riad la Petit Kasbah is a typical south Moroccan house made of mud (clay). The walls are not quite parallel, and the floor is not quite straight either, but after getting used to the tricky angles it turned out to be a very nice place to stay. We are dinner in the nearby auberge, la Maine.
The day after our arrival in Zagora, on the 16th we walked all over the Kasbah, but I'll write about that in a separate post.
At 14:30 of dessert for began. A jeep picked us up from the riad, and drove us all the way to M'hamid. There we were introduced to our camels. After 10 minutes we were already on top of them sitting there with a confidence like we were born Berber. It's a little weird though. You have to hold on really well, especially when the camel goes up and knees down. We were passing by sand dunes, dry some desert and some trees that somehow lost their ways and survived. After an hour and a half the guide stopped the animals, we got down, and he told us in broken French that he had to go back, and that the camp is close, we should go that direction. Ha. Right. We we nothing, just sand dunes around us. Should we believe him that the camp is really there? Jeruen run up to one of the dunes and confirmed. The camp was really there. It was made out of semi permanent tents. One of them was the bathroom, another one was the restaurant, and the rest were for living. We were their only guests, but they did everything for us. They cooked delicious tageen, they made Berber music with percussion, fantastic mint tea. This was my second time in life that I saw the milky way. The sky was clean of course, no unnecessary lights, and when I looked up the sky was shining in the night. The day after we had an entire day of jeep ride over the desert. We were observing camels, we were giving them some water from the well. The landscape was a bit like the first photos arriving from the comet or the Mars. We ate lunch in an oasis, and by the late afternoon we arrived to the dunes of Chegaga, just about 20 kilometres away from the closed Algerian border. This is the real Sahara, huge sand dunes and amazing colors.
The best way to climb the dunes is barefoot. It's great fun, especially around sunset, when it becomes less hot. On Friday morning or driver took us back to Zagora. This ride took two ours on the sand and stone, until we reached M'hamid, and from there another hour on the mostly paved road to Zagora.

No comments: